A September escape to Andalusia (Ronda & Setenil de las Bodegas).

During my stay in Málaga, I decided to take a day trip to Ronda and Setenil de las Bodegas — and it turned out to be one of the highlights of my time in Andalusia. Around 90 minutes away by bus, the journey itself was beautiful, winding through rolling hills and olive groves before arriving at one of Spain’s most dramatic towns.

First Impressions of Ronda

Perched high above a deep gorge, Ronda immediately feels different from anywhere else in southern Spain. The town is split by the El Tajo Gorge, a breathtaking chasm spanned by the iconic Puente Nuevo, or “New Bridge.” Even though it was built in the 18th century, it looks timeless — an architectural marvel connecting Ronda’s old and new quarters.

The Legendary Bullring and Museum

My first stop was the Plaza de Toros de Ronda, one of the oldest and most famous bullrings in Spain. Even for someone who isn’t particularly drawn to bullfighting, it’s a fascinating place to explore. The museum offers a deep look into the tradition and artistry of Spanish bullfighting, with historical costumes, photos, and exhibits that bring the culture to life. Standing in the middle of the empty arena, surrounded by the tiered stone seating, I could almost imagine the roar of the crowds from centuries past.

The Puente Nuevo and That View

Of course, the real showstopper in Ronda is the Puente Nuevo. No matter how many photos you’ve seen, nothing quite prepares you for the view in person. The bridge arches dramatically across the gorge, with whitewashed buildings clinging to the cliffs on either side. I found a small terrace restaurant overlooking the gorge and enjoyed a long, lazy lunch with a view at the Don Miguel restaurant — delicious Andalusian food, a glass of local wine, and the sound of the wind echoing through the valley below.

Wandering Through Ronda’s Old Town

After lunch, I spent the afternoon wandering through Ronda’s old town, where every street seemed to tell a story. The Moorish architecture, cobbled lanes, and elegant courtyards made it feel like stepping back in time. From historic churches and charming plazas to viewpoints looking out across the surrounding countryside, Ronda is a place best explored slowly, with no particular plan.

Setenil de las Bodegas

Tucked away in the hills of southern Spain, just a short drive from Ronda, lies one of Andalusia’s most extraordinary little towns — Setenil de las Bodegas. I arrived early in the morning before I headed over to Ronda, just as the sunlight began to spill over the cliffs, casting golden streaks across the whitewashed houses built directly into the rock face.

A Village Carved from Stone

What makes Setenil so remarkable is its architecture — or perhaps, its lack of it. Here, people didn’t build on the landscape; they built into it. Entire streets disappear beneath overhanging cliffs of honey-colored limestone, where shop signs and balconies peek out from beneath massive slabs of rock that seem to rest gently — and impossibly — above them.

Walking through Calle Cuevas del Sol, the town’s main street, I could hear the gentle hum of morning life: coffee cups clinking, doors opening, the low chatter of locals starting their day. Above me, the rock itself formed a natural canopy, keeping the street cool even in the warmth of the Andalusian sun.

Breakfast Beneath the Cliffs

I stopped at a small café tucked into the cliffside — one of those spots where you can sit half in sunlight, half in shadow. My breakfast was simple but perfect: freshly toasted bread with olive oil and tomato, and a strong café con leche. Watching the locals greet each other and the slow rhythm of the morning unfold, it felt like time moved differently here — slower, softer, more grounded.

Exploring the Hidden Streets

After breakfast, I wandered through the narrow lanes and stepped up to Calle Cuevas de la Sombra, literally “Street of the Shade.” True to its name, the rock completely covers the street, creating a cool tunnel of stone and white walls. It’s surreal and beautiful — like nature and architecture decided to collaborate instead of compete.

At every turn, there were new perspectives: tiny houses wedged into the cliffs, terraces overlooking the river below, and bright flowers spilling from window boxes that somehow thrive in the filtered light.

A View Worth Climbing For

Climbing to the Mirador del Carmen, I found the perfect vantage point to see the village spread out below — the jagged line of rock, the river winding through, and the white houses glowing in the morning sun. From above, Setenil looks like a painting, a patchwork of stone and white facades, timeless and utterly unique.